 Bar Boulud Restaurant Review: If each restaurant in Daniel Boulud’s restaurant empire were royals, Daniel would be Queen Elizabeth, the elegant grande dame. Café Boulud in turn would be her more modern, but only slightly less stiff, offspring, Prince Charles. Db would be the young-but-privileged Prince William, while the youngest progeny, Bar Boulud, would be the more affable, approachable Prince Harry. Bar Boulud is the people’s prince, a space where the super-chef needn’t fuss so much about appearances but gives his people what they want. The comfortable, tunnel-like room feels like a modern wine cave with accents not only an oenophile could love, such as “bucket” holes carved into the sides of the booths; “wine-stain” art lining the walls; a long bar reserved for walk-ins; and a large tasting table for sommelier-friendly groups. The list of nearly 1,000 selections focuses strongly on the Burgundy and Rhône regions and the pleasantly peasanty menu honors the rustic, earthy fare of the chef’s Lyon roots. Charcuterie from Parisian pâté king Gilles Verot is the crowd-pleaser, from the forceful grand père (chicken liver, pork and Cognac), to the gentler Provençal pulled rabbit with carrot and zucchini, to cumin-spiced sausage, sitting like silver dollars on a bed of rich lentils --- a smoky, porky delight. Frisée Lyonnaise beautifully blends leaf, lardons and chicken liver, and the escargots persillade, parsley-bathed snails with delicate potato croquettes, pair for a don’t-miss dish. Sides like creamy, cheesy cauliflower continue to celebrate all that is great about classic French cooking: butter, cheese and fat. Boulud’s embracement of these basics in his restaurant family, and this smart addition, will see to it that he remains “le roi” of New York’s dining scene.
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Bar Boulud Restaurant is one of GAYOT's 2013
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Bar Boulud is one of our Top 10 Wine Bars in the United States
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