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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bardessono Restaurant Review: From the street, Bardessono resort’s blocky, sparse compound seems vexingly cold for wine country. But once through the mighty wooden doorway made from salvaged walnut, the devout, emergent, eco-conscious design welcomes. The stylized dining room features a log chandelier sprouting crystal leaves suspended above a reclaimed Monterey cypress communal table; stone platters of seasonal produce; a wall mural of olives in 3-D; and views of a stone patio with canals, boardwalk planks, and gentle water cascades. The sensuous cuisine seems themed around natural enlightenment. Begin with a half dozen oysters from Tomales Bay or potato gnocchi with artichokes, mushrooms, licorice and kicky sylvetta. An on-property garden and a back-up adjacent to The French Laundry’s garden supply plenty of fodder. Watson’s Napa Valley lamb might be accompanied by spicy rice vermicelli laksa, bok choy and enoki mushrooms, while diver scallops might be matched with sweet potatoes, smoky Benton’s bacon, green onions and lemon jus. Finish with the tiramisu made with Kahlua-mascarpone mousse, ladyfingers, espresso granite and Blue Bottle Coffee ice cream. Highly skilled service seals the experience.