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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Barrow's Restaurant Review: HURRICANE KATRINA: this establishment is currently closed. For a New Orleans Travel Update as well as resources, information and help click here. Barrow's is that place with the neon sign that's just out of reach---you see it as the Earhart Expressway launches you into the wild suburbs beyond Orleans Parish. It eludes locals and tourists alike, and if its fried catfish weren't perhaps the best fried catfish in the world, no one would bother figuring out how to get there (hint: turn left onto Hollygrove Street before the Expressway swallows you). The Barrow Family, now in its third generation of restaurateurs, serves fried catfish and only fried catfish. You may order a $13, $14 or $15 plate, which translate roughly to Large, Extra-Large and Unfinishable. A light, impossibly grease-free cornmeal batter covers each slender filet. And the catfish are wild, not farm-raised, which accounts for its full flavor and firm but moist flesh. Creamy potato salad, iceberg salad with tomato and pickles, and buttered white toast round out the catfish's minimal accompaniments. You'll wish for nothing else but a glass of lemonade or iced tea, both sweetened to please a hummingbird. The windowless space is nearly bare and yet somehow filled with character. Photos of the late Billy Barrow, son of the founder, hang on the walls alongside signs for sweet potato pie and pecan pralines (only occasionally available), and the well-stocked juke box offers up additional atmosphere. Regulars---there are many---long ago memorized the number for Al Green's Love and Happiness.