Benny Siddu (Volare) is behind this spendy River North steakhouse, a den of prime Allen Brothers meat and seafood with Jonathan Lane (Four Seasons) in the kitchen and Justin Leone (Alinea) playing the role of sommelier. The setting is as old-school as it gets---comfortable booths, a dim, clubby setting and a piano player on weekends---though the repertoire is somewhat redefined, as evidenced in the serious cocktail program, showily plated crab-lobster Louie and grilled romaine. The dry-aged steaks really are all that---tender, marbled and full of flavor---even if other options, such as dry, butter-laden skate wing, fall short. A well-traveled wine list and pasta sides, including rich, braised oxtail pappardelle, complete this very posh, special occasion experience.
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