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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Beso Restaurant Review: In this popular River Oaks-area space, passionate chef Arturo Boada and longtime restaurateur Bill Sadler offer sunny Latin tapas, small snack-sized bites of everything from seafood to beef, and the choices can be so outrageously good that you may decide to make a meal of them. When we're in the mood for more than grazing, we like to move on to the often sensational seafood entrées, such as mussels steamed in a zippy tomatillo broth and the clever salmon chop with invigorating mango pico de gallo. And there's always the fish taco, which Boada put on Houston's culinary map---hunks of gently fried fish, nestled in soft tortillas garnished with delicately shredded cabbage and cilantro, then doused with a garlicky pepper sauce. Beso's red or white sangría---and the palmy subtropical patio---will likely, as the name promises, kiss away all your troubles for the day.