Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Bistro at Grand Center

3536 Washington Ave. (Grand Blvd.) Send to Phone

Dinner Tues.-Sat.

* Click here for rating key

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Bistro at Grand Center Restaurant Review

: There's new management, new faces, new menu and a slightly changed name at this Grand Center eatery which houses the Jazz at The Bistro series. The buttery walls, especially in the cozy front-room bar, warm things up for the pre-theater and pre-concert crowds; other nights it's far quieter. The menu of chef Eric Brenner remains steadfastly American, but a far cry from what many St. Louisans ate here 40 years ago when the building was a Pope's Caféteria. Harry Pope's pork chops never had a sauce of calvados and pecans and his mashed potatoes nary a whisper of garlic, but Brenner's certainly do. The menu is brief but satisfying, with things like lobster risotto and pan-seared salmon, all of which are presented with some interesting sides like a red onion jam to go with the filet mignon and potato gratin, Chocolate pudding cake turns out to be the inescapable molten chocolate cake, but the nightly soufflé is a classic rendition and utterly pleasurable. The wine list is short and reasonably priced.


Discover the best female chefs, top pizzerias and stellar seafood restaurants with GAYOT's Top 10 lists of the best restaurants in America.