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Bittersweet Restaurant Review: It may reside on a wretchedly busy intersection --- and you may be bitter that you didn’t snag a space in the tiny parking lot --- but once you’ve stepped inside chef-owner Olav Peterson’s sanctuary of neighborhood warmth, everything turns to sweetness, beginning with the artful wine list that’s stamped with eclectic boutique bottlings, many of which you won't find elsewhere. Peterson’s equally inventive menu --- house-baked breads, charcuterie and artisan desserts --- also benefits from the bounty blooming in the chef’s onsite garden, a lush outdoor oasis of herbs and vegetables, including chard, red and green tomatoes, squash blossoms and eggplant. To wit: a farfalle with leeks, arugula, balsamic and smoked blue cheese, or the Wagyu hanger steak for two, paired with freekeh, garlic scapes, mushrooms and pearl onions. For a sweet ending, finish with lemongrass semifreddo or the cherry tart festooned with toasted sunflower seeds and plated with buttermilk ice cream.