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Bittersweet Restaurant Review: It may reside on a wretchedly busy intersection --- and you may be bitter that you didn’t snag a space in the tiny parking lot --- but once you’ve stepped inside chef-owner Olav Peterson’s sanctuary of neighborhood warmth, everything turns to sweetness, beginning with the artful wine list that’s stamped with eclectic boutique bottlings, many of which you won't find elsewhere. Peterson’s equally inventive menu --- house-baked breads, charcuterie and artisan desserts --- also benefits from the bounty blooming in the chef’s onsite garden, a lush outdoor oasis of herbs and vegetables, including chard, red and green tomatoes, squash blossoms and eggplant. To wit: a Provencal tart with eggplant, red peppers, local goat cheese and garlic vinaigrette, or scallops and monkfish paired with baby bok choy and preserved lemons. For a sweet ending, finish with the tres leches cake draped with eggnog cream and sided with roasted chestnut ice cream.