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Bliss Restaurant Review: Mark Bliss, who cut his culinary teeth with Bruce Auden, then moved on to other venues such as Silo, has opened his long-awaited eponymous restaurant in a lovingly converted and expanded ex-service station in Southtown. The small vestibule bar is a good place to start with a lapidary plate of charcuterie and cheeses, or perhaps Bliss’s classic chicken-fried oysters, here presented in “slider” form. There are almost enough wines by the glass on a list that’s notable for not being knee-jerk. Main menu plates vary seasonally --- if not weekly --- but the likes of diaphanous potato blini with caviar and a quail egg have been rewarding, and rarely seen sweetbreads were finely rendered; a salad with both red and yellow beets, however, was perhaps too precious. The same can be said for a venison roulade that didn’t allow the thinly sliced meat’s flavor to come through. Both seared sea scallops and herb-crusted lamb, on the other hand, have been beautifully done. Desserts and service both shine.