THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED BLT Market

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED BLT Market Restaurant Review:

The feeling at Laurent Tourondel’s restaurant is one of comfort in a country market setting, from food paintings and countrified wood furnishings to the actual general store up front. The result is a display of colors and tastes combined with artistry that’s at once simple and complex. The menu, which changes monthly according to the bounty of the moment, showcases local and regional food artisans. Tourondel won acclaim for his seafood at the now-defunct Cello, and there are lots of standout choices here: wild salmon, Alaskan black cod, and stone crab claws are all presented with light sauces and vegetable purées adding just the right zing. New York steak au poivre is properly cooked. Rock shrimp risotto and raw hamachi starters both work beautifully with the loaf of warm garlic bread presented in a bakery bag. An amuse-bouche may be a clever take on “pigs in a blanket,” a sausage in pastry with stone ground mustard from Maine. Desserts are also appealing with choices like a chestnut nougat sundae and the chef’s signature apple cake. The cocktail list---try the refreshingly powerful Concord caipirinha---is also reflective of the season, and the wine list is extensive and thoughtful.