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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Blue Sea at Delano Restaurant Review: Blue Sea is not so much a restaurant as a dining room table---a long elegant marble one with communal seating, in an alcove, designed by Philippe Starck, which angles out into the chic white-draped lobby of the Delano hotel. People-watching is at a premium here but, more pertinently, the sushi and Asian small plates are among the most imaginative in town. Barbecue eel roll is sparked with mango, coconut, crab meat and black sesame seeds; spicy tuna gets rolled with olives, almonds, raisins, masago, mango and avocado. Non-sushi dishes are delicately tasty as well, especially the spicy lobster martini and a mango-lime marinated diver scallop ceviche. We also suggest the tray of witty lollipop-like spicy salmon and sea bass pinwheels. Though all items are sufficiently chef-seasoned, an array of tabletop dipping sauces (including Thai peanut, kimchi and ponzu as well as the usual soy) enables diners to customize their meals. Saké and Champagne are the beverages of choice, and festive spirits abound. An additional plus: Service is friendlier than one might expect in such a trendy place.