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Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar Restaurant Review: Chef Frank Pabst is at the vanguard of the movement promoting responsible seafood practices, with an inventive approach to West Coast cuisine grounded by classical technique. Pabst created the annual Unsung Heroes dining festival to spotlight often under-appreciated yet bountiful regional seafood. His creative plates have included sea cucumber chowder with smoked potato and shiitake mushrooms, periwinkles served in their shells with saffron aïoli, and red sea urchin trifle with avocado cream, nori seaweed nest and yuzu saké purée. Stop in first at the main bar in this 100-year-old converted warehouse where you can happily slurp on a wide array of oysters while sipping on a skillfully crafted cocktail. Move on to the raw bar to savor wild sockeye salmon sashimi with chilled saké. Finally, settle into a plush banquette in the dining room and indulge in the three-tiered eponymous seafood tower or one of Pabst’s ocean underdogs showcased in that night’s spotlight. Carnivores will be pleased to discover that the kitchen also knows its way around meat, with Wagyu and Sezmu beef tenderloin as well as Kobe-style beef short ribs braised in coffee ancho chile sauce. Desserts are given proper respect, and the warm dark Cuban chocolate cake with a brandy truffle center and vanilla bean ice cream is a knockout. Sommelier Andrea Vescovi presides over the extensive wine list with its comprehensive selection of British Columbia’s best wines and notable Californian and Italian bottles. Service is gracious and professional.