| Buried in a strip mall and known for its grilled chicken, Bonanos could easily be overlooked. Yes, chef-owner Dante Balarezo’s pollo a la brasa is noteworthy: crispy-skinned yet juicy inside, flavored by a secret marinade and the ever-present Peruvian aji. But more storied Peruvian dishes do just as well as the country’s street food favorites. A ceviche appetizer arrives as it would at a restaurant on the coast of Lima: chunks of fresh, local fish cooked just beyond the point of raw by sweetly acidic lime juice, served with salty corn nuts, Peruvian sweet potatoes and a tumbleweed of thinly sliced red onions. An apparently simple saltado de carne---tender strips of filet mignon sautéed with onions and tomato---gets a zesty kick from Peruvian chilies and spices. Bold flavors and authentic dishes make up for the location. |
RESTAURANT AWARDS
We just published the 2012 edition of our annual restaurant issue, featuring the Top 40 Restaurants in the U.S. and much more. Check it out!
