 Although the décor remains unchanged, BondSt is a totally different restaurant than when it first opened. After our first visit, we, as well as others, wondered if LA really needed another sushi place. Maybe it was a polite way to say that we did not like BondSt’s sushi. But with the arrival of young chef Brian Redzikowski, dining here is a new experience. After studying at the NY Culinary Institute, Redzikowski entered the kitchens of Le Cirque, then Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Matsuhisa Aspen and Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. If that pedigree makes you think of contemporary, smart, impeccably presented dishes with a fusion twist, you are right. Examples include big eye tuna on a crispy tart with white truffle oil served on a plate made of wood; corn flan topped with Santa Barbara prawns, fresh vegetables and pea foam; and foie gras lollipops. In the “special” sashimi, don’t hesitate to try the king crab in rice sushi vinegar gelée with bacon foam, the uni simply served on toast or the salmon topped by watermelon infused in soy. The bouillabaisse has a serious Japanese twist in which the rouille is made of uni. Other items of interest are an elegant medallion of Jidori chicken on a bed of potato purée (one of the best we have ever tasted) and Australian Wagyu rib-eye. The creativity of Redzikowski continues with the sweets. The mochi are encased in donuts and accompanied by coconut ice cream. Make sure you eat in one bite the chocolate ball filled with liquid vanilla ice cream. The caramel flan with popcorn foam is a must. Let us hope that the talent of Redzikowski does not come too late to resuscitate the restaurant after such a difficult start.
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