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Brannan's Grill Restaurant Review: The woodwork in this American Craftsman barn-like dining hall radiates richness rather than rustic. Hand-forged metal trussing and hanging lamps create angular geometry under a tall ceiling to be contemplated from beefy booths. Glass doors that open to the sidewalk add warmth, as does a fireplace mounted with an enormous caribou head. Settle in for substantial plates that beg to be shared, starting with appetizers like lusty hoisin-glazed ribs with cucumber, and nutty fritto misto of calamari, green beans, wispy fennel and artichoke. You won’t need a knife to dig into tender lamb shank with cipollini onions tossed over the protruding bone. Grilled rib-eye with peppy chimichurri earns extra points for its accompanying Point Reyes blue cheese gratin, wonderfully stratified with a crisp top. A few forgivable sizing quirks: the calamari’s stiff rémoulade in a container too small to be practical, and a blimpy goat cheese patty weighing down an arugula-chicory salad. As difficult as it may be, save room for the caramel cheesecake. Brannan’s brandishes a wine list it can brag about, as well as a full bar; in fact, the bar area tends to pack people in all on its own.