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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Brasserie Le Coze Restaurant Review: Yellow tiles and etched glass, potted palms and reliable bistro fare meld into an experience that resembles a bit of Paris, without the jet lag. Originally founded by the team who established New York's vaunted Le Bernardin, today it's in the capable ownership hands of its original general manager, Fabrice Vergez. Executive chef Kaighn Raymond maintains the menu of traditional French fare, and has kept the signature white bean soup, a bowl of velvet infused with white truffle oil. The creamy onion soup is not the traditional French onion style with cheese on top, but instead a puréed broth-onion combination that is absolute silk on a spoon. Steamed mussels with a side of stellar fries is an appetizer large enough to make a good meal. Skate with brown butter is a specialty entrée always worth a try. Bistro classics include pàté, duck confit, magret of duck, rack of lamb and, of course, crème brûlée, which is classically styled. A nice selection of well-priced mostly French wines delivers value and quality, with a few blockbusters, such as a Richebourg for more than $500.