 Brasserie Ruhlmann Restaurant Review: The plush burgundy banquettes, brass rails, wall friezes and dark wood that make up the Art Deco furnishings of this Rockefeller Center restaurant may be a nod to the eatery’s namesake (architect Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann), but for the discriminating eater, the décor also makes a perfect setting for the French fare. Laurent Tourondel’s menu, at first glance, doesn’t exactly dazzle: tomato and bacon salad, steak au poivre, roasted duck breast a l’orange---standard brasserie offerings. That is, till your taste buds get a peek. As the knife snaps through the thin, crispy skin of the roasted free-range chicken, it plunges into tender white meat. The cod Provençale floats in a sea of mussels and clams. Inventive it’s not; truly authentic and high quality, it is. Just be sure to save room for dessert, which is where Ruhlmann especially shines: the creamy peanut-butter-ish Paris Brest will linger on your palate for hours.
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