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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Brasserie Tatin Restaurant Review: Few restaurants have opened with higher expectations than Brasserie Tatin. Its pedigree could hardly be better; the brainchild of Paris-born pastry chef Gerard Billebault (late of Bonjour and Philly's haute Le Bec-Fin) and maître d' Marc Dettori, it's located in the space occupied practically forever by old-school French mainstay Jeannier's. Don't expect white-tablecloth classicism from Tatin, though. The dining room is sleek but cheekily hip, with a turquoise-and-pumpkin color scheme, a fieldstone hearth, and retro-moderne light fixtures. The menu offers a contemporary take on well-loved culinary traditions, mixing such bistro standards as steak frites, soupe à l’oignon, truite almondine and poulet rôti with more ambitious fare. Diners can wallow in the glamour of an herb-encrusted rack of lamb or diver scallops with squash risotto and beurre blanc, or go casual with a personal brick-oven pizza or light fare in the lounge. With its close-set tables and lively crowds, this isn't a place for lingering, but what it loses in romance it makes up for in see-and-be-seen chic.