Brawn Restaurant Review
49 Columbia Rd.
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E2 London UK
020-7729 5692
Underground: Old Street
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Cuisine
Open
Lunch daily, Dinner Mon.-Sat.Features
- Air conditioning
- Full bar
- Reservations suggested
- Casual
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The dining scene in London is definitely moving eastward, and for some innovative cooking, albeit often in quirky surroundings, you need to visit places like Hoxton, which first came to public attention via the artists and galleries who moved there a few years ago. Brawn in Columbia Road, known for its Sunday morning flower market, is an offshoot of popular Terroirs in the West End. It has brought another trend to the area---London’s current love affair with all things offal. Brawn, known as ‘head cheese’ in the U.S., is a terrine made from the tongue, nose and cheeks of a pig’s head. Like its parent, Brawn is good for small plates---charcuterie from France, Italy and Spain; quail with romesco sauce; prawns with chilli and the like. The place is just right for the area and the customers, an industrial-style space in two rooms with casual wooden tables and chairs, a lack of tablecloths and sans pretension. Service is friendly; the wine list has a good range of organic labels. The only quibble is West End prices.
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