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Briscola Restaurant Review: Meet Briscola, Charlie Palmer’s local foray into Italian cuisine. Named after a traditional Italian card game and located in the Grand Sierra Resort & Casino, the sleek dining room with charming, unpretentious service is hip, loud and laid-back. First, allow yourself the ample antipasti platter; the prosciutto and other salumi are sliced to order at a meat station --- an almost sexy piece of machinery that deserves better placement in the dining room --- and accompany Italian cheeses, marinated mushrooms, roasted peppers, olives and grilled sourdough. A half order of pasta is the ideal (and traditional) way to carry on for the primi --- try the truffle-and-mushroom-stuffed agnolotti with Parmesan cream sauce. For secondi, look no further than the veal osso buco. Braised, baked and then broiled before it is set lovingly at your table falling off the bone, it can be eaten with a spoon. The saffron risotto and roasted garlic gremolata it sits atop seem almost superfluous. The wine list’s overall focus is on Italian blends and Californian Italian-style wines, but be sure to quiz the sommelier about the Small Vineyards Discovery labels --- unique bottles at great price points. Linger over vanilla strawberry panna cotta or chocolate cannoli with coffee --- or a little limoncello.