 Brushstroke Restaurant Review: You’d never guess what was going on behind the rice paper-shrouded windows at 30 Hudson Street, but there’s serious food and saké artistry happening. In the space previously occupied by Danube with its Klimt-inspired artwork, Brushstroke, a 15 years-in-the-making partnership between David Bouley and Yoshiki Tsuji of the Tsuji Cooking Institute in Japan, takes Japanese kaiseki dining to a new level. Reserve a table in the main blonde-wood dining room unless you’re solely interested in sushi, which is served in the small exterior bar area. Do browse the bar, however, and take note of the thousands of books shelved spine-out which comprise the walls. But sit at either the open-kitchen counter (highly recommended) or the tables rimming it and watch the magic. Decide between a seven-course or a ten-course prix-fixe artisanal kaiseki and a choice of rice, and the rest is up to the chefs. The knowledgeable saké sommelier will arrange pairings from the menu of about 70 choices, or recommend an equally appropriate cocktail. Among the dishes we experienced were steamed chawan mushi egg custard with Dungeness crab and a black truffle sauce so rich that it could have been served separately with a spoon; and the dumpling of scallop and lobster, fluffy like a matzoh ball, and accompanied by oyster mushroom tempura and grilled lobster in a clam broth. Heartier dishes like Wagyu steak and smoked duck breast are balanced by sashimi and airy desserts such as lychee and Japanese saké sorbet. Small plates range from light to heavier, all to astonishing effect. An equally inventive vegetarian menu brings such inspired choices as taro dumplings in a chrysanthemum petal sauce. This is a restaurant for foodies or for special occasions and should not be missed.
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