 The restaurant’s duality---chef Seiji Wakabayashi fuses French and Japanese flavors---is manifest even in the small room’s elegant, rustic-modern décor: an intimate first floor is dominated by a striking, 16-seat communal table split lengthwise into contrasting halves of wood and glass. Around it stand a few white-topped tables, and above, a petite mezzanine screened with frosted glass provides elevated dining for a private few. Combinations on heavy, geometric plates can be elaborate, and---as with the prices that range from $6-$20 for appetizers---somewhat confusing. Memorable dishes include seared foie gras in a pot de crème folded with kabocha squash the color of fresh egg yolk, crumbled lightly with crushed pistachio and chervil. Dramatic color also marks the carpaccio of golden beets crisscrossed with roasted paprika coulis, touches of mizuna and Himalayan truffle tapenade. Disparate elements overpower a too-spicy grilled day boat scallop main, served over saffron potato chowder and topped with a puff “popover”; and black cod dabbed with large shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano over uninspired porcini risotto. Meats are good: medallions of Wagyu périgourdine with shiitakes, and wild boar sausage with house-made choucroute. The menu of old- and new-world wines as well as good sakés by the (wine) glass provides some real treats. Specially-filtered, ph-balanced water is a house feature.
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Splurging at top-rated restaurants is fun for special events, but where can you go for a good quality meal that won't break the bank? Gather the change out of your piggy bank and sofa cushions and take it to one of our selections for the best cheap eats in your area. Also, check out our picks for the Top 40 Cheap Eats in the U.S.
