THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cadet

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cadet Restaurant Review:

Chef Kris Tominaga (The Hart & the Hunter) is behind this homage to rural French dining. The space is chic and romantic --- exposed brick, burnished brass tables and mod chandeliers set the scene, but the open wood-fired grill lends the room a particular warmth and fragrance. It’s hard not to linger over carefully crafted cocktails, made with the likes of smoked sage, and linger you should, especially since the smaller plates really shine. Why not make a meal of these? One standout is the rich sea urchin tartine that artfully blends uni, bottarga and shrimp butter. We also suggest the rabbit boulettes --- tender, aromatic meatballs alongside fluffy herb dumplings, floating in maple cream. Entrées are less exciting; our ember-roasted black cod came swimming in butter, and a wood-grilled pork three ways was pleasant enough, but unspectacular. These arrive with a slightly odd “table fare” array of sourdough crêpes, lettuce, horseradish, pickles and marinated cabbage, with suggestions to wrap your dish up yourself to eat, which left us somewhat nonplussed. A rustic chocolate mousse with brown butter sable adds a bittersweet finish, though a nice Nardini or Montenegro Amaro will do just as well.