Cafe des Amis Restaurant Review: This spacious, vivacious brasserie at the corner of Union and Buchanan features a chic atmosphere. The stately dining room is handsome in its sharp black, white and red dressings --- dramatic red velvet curtains and comfortable booths hint at old-fashioned luxury, while high ceilings and colossal French doors open to the sidewalk to keep things airy. The menu is full of sophisticated classics, most of them French --- think escargots, as well as cracked crab, clams and plump shrimp in hefty stainless steel bowls packed with shaved ice. Entrées hail from the French countryside, and include a rustic and robust coq au vin, the skin crisped and caramelized, paired with creamy potato mousseline. Rather than upstage, a bed of hearty lentils braised in a red wine gastrique provides friendly rivalry to tender grilled arctic char. Look for the requisite selection of cheese and charcuterie. Desserts are lovely reinvented standards, such as a strawberry tart smartly paired with basil sorbet, while a nice twist on lemon tart includes a brûléed crust on top. The wine list touts 500 bottles, the majority of which hail from France.
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