| Slow-braised short ribs that fall apart at the touch of a fork. Crispy-skinned fried chicken. A two-fisted burger topped with Gruyère and stuffed into a potato roll. A beef-stock onion soup that sings with mellow sweet onion flavor. Brussels sprouts, roasted to a bewitching caramel. If comfort food is what you seek, then make a reservation at Cafe Levain, where the restaurant's twenty-something chef, Adam Vickerman, specializes in familiar American fare polished to a high gloss by treating fresh, Minnesota-raised ingredients with respect. Complicated, no; honest and forthright, yes---right down to the lovely cheese selection, the affordable wine list and the storefront-as-farmhouse setting. Don't miss dessert, since the café is a sibling to the formidable Turtle Bread Co. |
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