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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Mira Restaurant Review: Asbestos gloves? You may need them for this hot new spot thats the darling of the the local chic set. (It lucked into a site that formerly housed another restaurant they loved.) The elegantly spare white decor is the perfect setting for your Calvin Kleins and Ermenegeldo Zegnas, but bring a bib. This fashionable place actually has fabulous food. The menu, like that at most first-rate restaurants, changes constantly. But the rock shrimp and calamari appetizer with Thai spicing has stuck around for a while, and is worthwhile. Entrées range from the seemingly simple like a roast chicken to a very rare tuna draped across a saffron-y couscous. Veal, a favorite in St. Louis, is sauced with morel mushrooms and truffle oil and nestled into a bed of watercress. Desserts are utterly splendid, although we quibble with labelling a bread pudding as chocolate just because of a dribble of sauce across the top. And quibble is the word, too, because the dish is splendid, trailing a caramel sauce and served with roasted banana ice cream that could leave both Ben and Jerry drooling. Unfortunately, service here, which began smooth and affable, has fallen into that vale of superiority that drives us crazy. We even hear stories of elderly, enfeebled patrons not being offered a chair while they wait 45 minutes for their reservation. Not a good idea in this town.