| Chef-owner Vic Kreidl has glamorized the take-out concept with his Austrian sensibilities and careful culinary skills. It's no wonder that his wedge-shaped Café Tirolo, tucked in behind Ballston's Tara Thai, serves a full house at lunchtime; dinners may be quieter. Seating is limited, so it's all to Kreidl's benefit that he plans dishes that can stay or go equally well. According to rumor, Kreidl popularized Alexandria's quirky Café Monti, and moving on from there, he took over this site with the intention of offering the best of Italo-Austrian food: People swear by his homemade pastas with their lush from-scratch sauces. Others demand his full-sized entrées, particularly his wienerschnitzel and the Austrian goulash with spätzle. We are content with his grilled (real!) Italian sausage sub garnished with peppers and onions and served on a homemade roll. We also applaud his rendition of the Italian cheesecake made with ricotta, but will zero in on the Viennese apple strudel next time. That and Kreidl's white pizza. If you decide to eat in, grab a seat facing the tiny kitchen; that way, you can watch how Kreidl orchestrates his staff's cooking. |

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