This rustically elegant establishment on La Brea has springboarded a plethora of other interesting restaurants in the neighborhood, and, of course, is famous for putting the now-ubiquitous La Brea Bakery on the map. Additionally, the kitchen's alumni have gone on to open some of the best restaurants throughout L.A. The setting---Charlie Chaplin's old digs---is reminiscent of a little Mediterranean village, complete with a bell tower (campanile in Italian). A bar sits on one side of the fountain-accented courtyard, a tiny bakery on the other, a casual dining area faces the open kitchen, and there's a formal rear dining room. The wine list is tantalizingly eclectic and the cuisine ranges---erratically, sometimes---from acceptable to dazzling. Chef-owner Mark Peel prepares such rustic French- and Italian-influenced dishes as pan-roasted black cod with black trompette mushrooms; rosemary-charred baby lamb with brown butter; and grilled prime rib with olive tapenade, flageolet beans and sautéed bitter greens. Desserts are legendary. Thursday night is grilled cheese sandwich night---a moderately-priced affair that has become a popular L.A. culinary event---when they make a dynamite croque monsieur; these sandwiches are also available on the regular menu. A reasonably priced three-course menu is offered on Monday nights. Our only regret is that we've sometimes suffered through mediocre and dispassionate service, a shame considering all the rest this restaurant has to offer.
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