Chef Dennis Leary, formerly of Rubicon, applies well-honed French technique in his own canteen-size space.
Canteen Restaurant is one of our
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| Chef Dennis Leary has gone from the big name, big room and big reputation of Rubicon to a small Tenderloin space. But, it is one that he can call his own. Canteen carries the imprint of its diner past: a long counter commands one side of the narrow storefront while a line of blue booths runs down the other. Leary applies his well-honed French technique to a short--but well-honed menu. Seemingly straightforward and down-market standbys like corned beef hash reach tasteful heights thanks to Leary's skills and the fact that he corns the beef himself. But then, Leary does everything here single-handedly. Even his perfectly cooked home fries are evidence of his fine culinary background. But Canteen is about more than just French fries. Leary's dinner menu is ambitious. He crafts courses like a green garlic soup with pearl barley, beef tongue and poached egg. His oyster mushroom clafoutis with dried tomato, walnuts and curry takes a savory turn. Desserts like lemon croquettes with hazelnut sauce feel homey. The compact wine list features well-chosen esoteric selections. |
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