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Castagna Restaurant Review: Castagna’s modernistic space brimming with white tablecloths sets the scene for the refined culinary experience to follow. The restaurant has undergone several transformations since its opening, most notably the molecular gastronomy era under erstwhile chef Matt Lightner. Current chef Justin Woodward has reworked the menu from its former laboratory edginess, but still maintains his enthusiasm for elaborate mini plates with as much emphasis on artistic arrangement and amusement as gustatory satisfaction. Diners may choose between a $65 prix-fixe meal and a 10-course tasting menu. Molecular gastronomy lives on in the "snacks," including a melon ball infused with gin, a beet chip topped with sour cream powder, and a rectangle-shaped piece of rib-eye anointed with Basque peppers. Slightly larger entrées feature creations such as pork in a hop infusion with dill and thyme, or brined halibut with a roasted fumet of crab, leeks and coriander. All ingredients are listed, resulting in such selections as "maitake mushroom, wilted sorrel" and "kurobuta pork, maltaise, burnt beet." For anyone enticed by dessert, the choices are exotic: beets soaked in whiskey with sorrel, for example. The extensive wine list features European and U.S. vintages. If you’re seeking a more casual meal, check out Café Castagna right next door.