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Castagna Restaurant Review: Castagna has undergone several transformations since its opening, most notably the molecular gastronomy era under erstwhile chef Matt Lightner. Current chef Justin Woodward has brought the menu back from its former laboratory edginess, but still maintains his enthusiasm for elaborate mini plates that place as much emphasis on artistic arrangement and amusement as gustatory satisfaction. Diners may choose between a $65 prix-fixe meal and a ten-course tasting menu. Molecular gastronomy lives on in the "snacks”: a melon ball infused with gin, a beet chip topped with sour cream powder, and a rectangle-shaped rib-eye piece anointed with Basque peppers. Slightly larger entrées feature culinary adventures such as pork in a hop infusion with dill and thyme, or brined halibut with a roasted fumet of crab, leeks and coriander. In the modernist tradition, all ingredients are listed, meaning squash, uni custard, steelhead roe, nasturtiums and more. For anyone enticed by dessert, the choices are exotic: beets soaked in whiskey with sorrel, for example. The extensive wine list features European and U.S. vintages. If you’re seeking a more casual meal, check out Café Castagna right next door.