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Celestin Restaurant Review: Set in a 1920s bank building, Celestin is a study in simple elegance, with black and white tiled floors, vanilla walls, warm candlelight and white tablecloths. The main dining room has French doors lining one wall, allowing natural light to pour in during the day from the patio. Chef Pascal Ribreau’s cooking leans modern French. Scampi soup is spiced with brandy and cayenne, with a chorizo-flecked potato cake floating in the middle. Pan-fried yellow pickerel gets oven-roasted with lemony shallots and served over green asparagus. The on-site bakery is the best in the city, so don’t skip the crusty, lightly textured breads and sophisticated desserts. A caramelized pear tartlet comes with a frozen pistachio parfait and cardamom blancmange. A three-course prix-fixe menu is available for under $20 Wednesday through Friday, and brunch is offered from eight in the morning until mid-afternoon Wednesday through Sunday. The wine list boasts big-occasion French classics and American and Italian treasures as well as carefully chosen monthly selections.