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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Centuria Restaurant Review: This extremely popular dining room sits behind a modern pub that's all bold art and bare boards. It is well placed to attract customers from Islington, Highbury and Stoke Newington. Not as cosy as some gastropubs, chefs in full view in the behind-the-counter kitchen rustle up a muscular Italian-inspired repertoire accompanied by pyrotechnic displays. After bread and olive oil, portions are generous, and a rather free hand with the cream---in a sauce for pumpkin ravioli with sage, for example---make for a satisfying and filling full meal for around £20. Seared tuna, chicken or squid are also menu staples.