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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chef Allen's Restaurant Review: Since the late 1980s, Allen Susser (one of four inventive "Mango Gang" chefs who put South Florida on the culinary map with New World cuisine) has operated his eponymous restaurant as a classic fine dining spot. But dining styles and tastes change. So congenial Susser has changed with them, completely modernizing both his physical space, from formal to hip open-architecture, and his menu. The latter formerly featured expensive multi-course meals, complex preparation, and a myriad of luxe ingredients; now it offers affordable, casual, contemporary bistro fare, with the emphasis on local, seasonal seafood. A simpler cooking style is demonstrated in items like a surf ‘n’ turf of Niman Ranch skirt steak and garlicky guava shrimp, or shrimp and grits brûlée (made with organic stone ground grits and regional shrimp, and enlivened with sweet-and-sour tamarind). But clearly Susser's famed tropical touches, especially his flair for incorporating exotic regional produce, has survived. So have his crisp, delicate potato pancakes---a must-not-miss side.