Cheu Fishtown

Cheu Fishtown Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: The second incarnation of Cheu, the contemporary Asian-inspired eatery from Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh, takes up residence in a former stable for police horses on the gentrified strip of Fishtown’s Frankford Avenue. Inside, a red bar runs underneath a marquee sign with the daily specials. Graffiti-esque murals and a patchwork banquette sit opposite, with an overall atmosphere of laid-back whimsy.

Likes: Brisket; duck rolls; dumplings; atmosphere.
Dislikes: Few dessert options.

Food & Drinks: The menu moves away from noodles --- though there’s a small list of ramen --- to encompass dumplings filled with pastrami pork or green curry chicken and buns stuffed with beef and kimchi or pork belly. Crispy barbecue duck rolls cleverly integrate Vietnamese green papaya and Chinese hoisin. The star of the show is Bubbie Chow’s sliced beef, a brisket braised char siu style and served on a platter with buns, beet barbecue sauce, mustard and homemade dill pickles. There’s only one dessert offered, which changes nightly, but it might be something like a green tea cheesecake. The drinks stay true to the fun and slightly irreverent tone, with Oomami (oolong infused gin, lemongrass and club soda) or the Mellow My Man punch (bourbon, Thai basil, bitters), which can be served in a carafe for a larger group. There are also a few house wines, a small list of craft beers and a select menu of spirits. Visit during weekday (5 p.m.-7 p.m.) or weekend (3 p.m.-5 p.m.) happy hour for $5 bites like wings and dumplings and discounted beverages.