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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chez Leon Restaurant Review: A salmon-pink exterior marks this Central West End restaurant as something different, and it is. It’s not fusion; it’s not contemporary. It’s a French bistro, complete with vintage phone and coat racks, and its many fans wouldn’t have it any other way. French doors open onto the sidewalk; long mirrors hang above the banquettes; and the bartender in the wee, velvet-curtained bar mixes a fine ’50s-style martini. Roast chicken and sweetbreads, ratatouille and béarnaise, a fine salade Lyonnaise and dollops of chocolate gâteau all are on display when in season. Our only problem is with the frites---they’re only great sometimes. Owner Leon Bierbaum runs things with finesse and occasionally tries his hand at being an impresario with cabaret acts. Even without that added incentive, this is a good value for the money. Check out the flexible three-course prix-fixe option.