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Chiado Restaurant Review: Elegantly European, this cozy restaurant on a busy, multicultural street serves what has often rightly been called the best Portuguese cuisine outside of Lisbon. Owner Albino Silva has fresh fish flown in daily from the Azores, and he presents fresh-baked Portuguese bread, oil and olives while you peruse the menu. The fish shines, from simple grilled, marinated sardines to pan-seared grouper. Meats, all organic or vegetable-fed, may include beef tenderloin with tawny port sauce or roasted pheasant kissed with Madeira wine. Silva makes sure all dishes are artful and authentic, whether it is grilled squid, gently roasted salt cod or assorda, a dry soup of monkfish, lobster, shrimp and clams. Be sure to leave room for classic Portuguese finales, such as natas do ceu (crème layered on almond liqueur-soaked ladyfingers, topped with egg nectar) or silky pudim flan. The wine, port and Madeira list showcases Portugal’s treasures. The adjacent tapas and wine bar is a good place to hang out before or after dinner.