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Chow! Bella Restaurant Review: St. Albans charms travelers with its quaint storefronts and grassy promenade, and for over a dozen years, Franklin County’s only upscale bistro has held court over this unassuming stretch of Americana. The seasoned staff work farm-fresh greens into elegant Mediterranean presentations, all from an open kitchen. Pairing pecan-crusted Danish cheese with sweet cippolini onions is a winning start, as are the chef’s freshly baked flatbreads (don’t miss the shrimp and spinach pie); doused in savory, house-made marinara, they sing with flavor. Steaks make good use of local Boyden beef, but savvy patrons come for the kitchen’s ethnic entrées. Sticky molasses pork chops are a steal, as are the mussels Moiree, lightly dressed in a coconut ginger chili sauce. Wines are reasonably priced and seasonal treats like maple crème brûlée are worth sharing. Once a reception room for the adjacent opera house, Bella’s pressed-tin ceiling still carries whispers from years past. Call ahead for the intimate window nook, a two-seater with Main Street views.