 Church & State Restaurant Review: Despite the fact that owner Yassmin Sarmadi’s French bistro is located in the heart of downtown, she has successfully established its presence on LA’s culinary map, and diners have been making the trip to its Biscuit Company Lofts digs since it opened in 2008. Sarmadi kept the original brick floor of the former loading dock of the Nabisco factory, with its 1920s look, and complemented it with a large mirror in the back, a bar as you enter, an open kitchen on the opposite side, and strings of lights hanging across the ceiling. The menu, in the hands of fine-dining trained chef Tony Esnault (formerly at Patina), is exclusively composed of French bistro dishes --- it is even written in French. Start with soupe à l'oignon gratinée, steak tartare or roasted bone marrow. The charcuterie is all house-made, such as salmon rillettes with lemon-chive cream. Fish calls for a bouillabaisse or sautéed diver scallops. If you are looking for a good cassoulet de Toulouse, you’ll find it here. Lighter dishes include braised veal breast with celery root purée. Cheeses are presented on a nice wood board and are from France to maintain the French flair. Finish with the chocolate coffee custard or the warm apple galette. The short wine list is composed only with selections from France. You may also ask for a house cocktail, made with fresh-squeezed fruits.
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