Church & State
Biscuit Company Lofts
1850 Industrial St. (Mateo St.) 
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Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-405-1434 | Make Restaurant Reservations
 Chef Walter Manzke was one of the few top toques allowed to man the stoves at Bastide. We had raved about his cuisine there, and we are now raving about what he is doing here. Manzke has intelligently applied his fine-dining techniques to bistro fare to make this restaurant the best French bistro in town. Restaurateur Yassmin Sarmadi, who has been involved at Joe’s in Venice for several years, decided to keep the space---it was the former loading dock of the Nabisco factory---the way she found it, with its 1920s look. The original brick floor remains, complemented by a large mirror in the back, a bar as you enter, an open kitchen on the opposite side, and strings of lights hanging across the ceiling. The goal was to create a true French bistro with typical French dishes, which is the case besides the Kumamoto oysters. Come hungry since it is difficult to choose between the perfectly cooked moules marinières; the salade de harengs (probably the best we’ve ever had); and the pied de cochon, pigs’ feet on lentils for appetizers. The charcuterie is all house-made and includes a foie gras terrine topped with port wine gelée. Tartines (bread with roasted eggplant or goat cheese), salads or onion tarts are other starter options. If that sounds good to you, you must have some crispy pigs’ ear. They come from the best pork producer in the country and prepared by Manzke, they are pure pleasure on the palate. You are now ready to move on to the confit de canard, the bouillabaisse, the steak frites or the cassoulet aux légumes. The cheeses are presented on a nice wood board and are from France to maintain the French flair. Of course, you are going to find a crème brûlée for dessert, along with a tarte au chocolat, a cherry tart and a warm apple crisp. The short wine list is composed only with selections from France. You may also ask for a house cocktail, made with fresh-squeezed fruits. If the restaurant's name seems a bit strange (as this phrase often follows "the separation of"), it's only because the owners picked a name that would stand out and cause a stir---which it certainly does. The restaurant is far away downtown, but for a real French bistro experience it is much closer than Paris and really worth the drive. |
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