We must admit that owner Yassmin Sarmadi has successfully positioned her French bistro, Church & State, on the city of Angels' culinary map. Despite the fact that the restaurant is located far away downtown, diners have been making the trip there since its opening in 2008. Sarmadi kept the original brick floor of the former loading dock of the Nabisco factory, with its 1920s look. It has been complemented by a large mirror in the back, a bar as you enter, an open kitchen on the opposite side, and strings of lights hanging across the ceiling. Chef Jeremy Berlin is in charge of the lengthy menu, exclusively composed of French bistro dishes---it is even written in French. Even though Berlin is not French, he executes them with a certain savoir-faire. Start with soupe à l'oignon gratinée, steak tartare, roasted bone marrow or braised octopus. Add the salade niçoise made with seared yellowfin tuna or the tarts (we like the one made with caramelized onions, roasted butternut squash, goat cheese, arugula and balsamic reduction). The charcuterie is all house-made and includes potted veal breast rillettes topped with apricot and long pepper jam, served with pickled vegetables. Fish calls for a bouillabaisse or the sautéed Scottish salmon with caramelized fennel, cucumber and citrus fennel salad. If you are looking for a good cassoulet de Toulouse, you’ll find it here. Lighter dishes are the lamb sirloin on saffron Israeli couscous or the braised veal breast with celery root purée. Cheeses are presented on a nice wood board and are from France to maintain the French flair. Finish with the chocolate coffee custard or the tarte Tatin. The short wine list is composed only with selections from France. You may also ask for a house cocktail, made with fresh-squeezed fruits.
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