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Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen Restaurant Review: Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, owner of Mustards, uses Backstreet as her home-away-from-home kitchen. Regulars come to relax after work with a cocktail from an impressive drink menu, and to chow down on a comforting slab of meatloaf served with homemade horseradish, smoldering cumin-braised beef stuffed in piquillo peppers, spice-rubbed quail, or a local favorite---the Chinatown duck burger (marinated for 24 hours) with house-made shiitake mushroom ketchup. Also irresistible: bubbling spinach and garlic oysters paired with bubbly at the bar. To mix it up, Wednesdays feature prix-fixe suppers, and on Thursday eves, guest winemakers rove the tables pouring their own and then trying their best behind the bar. Cindy's has become the neighborhood’s place to let one’s hair down while enjoying fine, eclectic cuisine.