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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Citron Restaurant Review: Citron is proof that the road to a so-so meal can be paved with the best of intentions. There's a lot to make you want to like this restaurant: the promise of organic produce, local fish, and natural meats and poultry is intriguing, and there are arch menu descriptions (the "Burger Acting Badly," for example, is topped with tempura-smoked bacon, porter-ale cheddar, and chipotle mayonnaise). Fifteen flights of wine are offered with dinner, in varietal groupings like "Pinot Envy" and the "Three Deadly Zins." Meals start promisingly, with an assortment of breads served with a salty black-olive tapenade and another of sun-dried tomatoes. But an appetizer of assorted ahi may be bland, saved only by a spring roll liberally daubed in wasabi; "Macaroni and Three Cheeses" is really more like macaroni and cream. The entrée of pan-seared scallops with bacon and charred asparagus is acceptable. Give Citron credit for its zesty ideas, but the preparations and presentations coming out of the kitchen will need more zip if this bistro is to thrive in Providence's crowded restaurant scene.