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Citrus Restaurant Review: Coolly contemporary Citrus is situated in a Spanish-named hotel, the style of which is Tuscan, all in a city with Tex-Mex roots --- so naturally the menu combines locavore leanings with touches of Mexican and contemporary American cuisines. And even some of that may continue to evolve under the direction of chef Robbie Nowlin. Nowlin’s résumé includes stints with local culinary heavyweight Jason Dady as well as time at Napa Valley’s famed The French Laundry, positions that should make him right at home with dinner starters like bourbon foie gras with pickled watermelon, or lobster taquitos with manchego cheese. There’s currently an obligatory Texas Prime rib-eye served with cabrales blue cheese; broiled crab cakes come with whiskey pinto beans; and the Gulf is represented by snapper with green chile grits. Lunch offerings are simpler, but this may be one instance where a buffet is actually worthwhile if one can resist the à la carte popcorn tortilla soup with quail confit or the barbecue beer short rib sandwich. Later in the day, hip and happening Vbar holds forth across the lobby.