THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED City Eatery

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED City Eatery Restaurant Review:

The popular Astor Lounge still pulsates in the subterranean room below this somewhat sedate restaurant that used to be called Astor. Not much in the way of décor has changed since Astor morphed into City Eatery, but the menu has done a 360, from standard brasserie fare to creative Italian. Chef Scott Conant came up in the culinary world by way of San Domenico and some other esteemed Italian eateries and he has a way with the cuisine. Tiny feather-light gnocchi are served with a simple, sweet tomato sauce that is perfection. A simple appetizer of grilled shrimp tasted of seaside freshness. Soft polenta wafts to the table with the scent of truffles and delivers nothing less. Respectable entrées include a racy olive-oil-poached tuna and lusty short ribs. The room is odd considering the sensuous food, it feels rather standoffish, with its incongruous red banquettes---more at home when the place was a brasserie---and lofty ceilings. We'll just close our eyes and enjoy.