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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED City Grill Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Ascend a pair of sweeping marble staircases beneath the great rotunda and travel back to the elegance of the early 1900s, when the Hurt Building was the tallest skyscraper in the city. It symbolized the emergence of the New South from the ashes of Civil War. At the top of the stairs you enter City Grill with its lofty ceilings, murals and massive floor-to-ceiling windows. The dramatic space feels like a movie set featuring a fine old gentleman's club somewhere in the Far East. And in the evening, the room takes on a romantic air, an apt setting for the many weddings that take place at the restaurant. We like to settle down in the bar, off to the side but still part of the dining room, for a pre-dinner libation. The lunch menu has been simplified to focus on such items as a notable cheeseburger, its meat good enough to enjoy rare. And don't miss the crab bisque or the lightly seared tuna with its ginger-flecked aïoli. At dinner, a root vegetable tempura makes a fine light starter. New Zealand rack of lamb in a mustard-and-coriander crust comes cooked as ordered. A cheese course is a regular feature and local products such as Springer Mountain chicken from north Georgia grace the menu. The well-crafted wine list includes a section of apéritif wines. Excellent by-the-glass choices are decently priced. Champagnes and sparkling wines are offered in extraordinary depth. Tête de Cuvée Champagnes merit a separate section.