Claro

Claro Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: There’s no shortage of Mexican restaurants in New York City, but foodies looking for a higher form of the south-of-the-border cuisine need to visit this cozy gem in the Gowanus section of Brooklyn. Chef T.J. Steele, a veteran of Union Square Cafe, has alternated his time between NYC and Southern Mexico to bring elevated Oaxacan fare to hungry diners. Closely set tables around a bar that tempts with rows and rows of mezcals set the tone for a lively, friendly evening at Claro. Oaxacan tiles, ceramics and kitschy murals add to the fun. Outdoor patio seating in warmer months is a treat with its trees, string lights and open kitchen.

Likes: Authentic and creative Oaxacan menu.
Dislikes: Small size can make reservations difficult, although there are bar seats available and limited lunch seating; a bit pricey.

Food & Drinks: Steele takes Mexican favorites like tacos and tostadas and dresses them up Oaxacan-style with flair and flavor combinations that are his trademark, adding Mexican ingredients and house-made masa. Take, for example, the tostada de tuna, piles of cubed tuna fired up with oranges, chicharrones and pasilla chiles from Oaxaca; or the unexpected baby squid tacos enlivened with fermented habanero and escabeche. Memelas, crispy flatbreads topped with shrimp, mushrooms or pork rib, can give any pizza a run for its money. But the true star is the mole, a Oaxacan specialty. Chef Steele doesn’t disappoint with standout red and black versions of the thick sauce, made with pork cheek and short ribs respectively. Food choices can be quite spicy so if you don’t want chile de arbol or any of a number of other kickass ingredients, be sure to specify your preference. The dessert menu, while limited, has excellent choices like the dulce de Calabaza, pumpkin doused with caramel sauce and thick whipped cream. Claro encourages you to be adventurous by choosing a flight of mezcals from the extensive and descriptive menu – the bartender can help you select among the 50 choices. Or have a creative cocktail like the Quemar Morder, a mezcal (espadin) spin on a Negroni that comes smoked with palo santo wood. While mezcal is the preferred beverage to accompany the cuisine, the wine bases are covered with one white, one red, one rosé and a Champagne.