Coda

Coda Restaurant Review:

It’s obvious that a restaurateur who spends millions on a sprawling, sparkling space, then installs a big-name chef who slaughters his own pigs and stomps his own wine grapes, is ambitious. But a joint like the South End’s Coda is a happy reminder that ambition is relative. In replacing beloved dive Tim’s Tavern, it undertook some delicate negotiations: it would have to be casual, comfortable and unpretentious enough to sway stalwarts, but it would also have to spiff up sufficiently to turn the heads of former passersby. A smattering of artsy accents add color without diluting the essence of the neighborhood bar-and-grill; likewise, the kitchen covers all the bases in the field of American gastropub fare --- small plates feature deviled eggs and an artisan cheese plate, while larger dishes include a smoked bone-in pork chop, steak frites and Cape Cod fisherman’s stew. Don’t miss the roasted half chicken with braised collards and an amped-up baked mac ‘n’ cheese with pancetta, peas and aged cheddar, which goes even better with a spicy margarita made with Serrano chili pepper-infused tequila.