| It’s obvious that a restaurateur who spends millions on a sprawling, sparkling space, then installs a big-name chef who slaughters his own pigs and stomps his own wine grapes, is ambitious. But a joint like Coda is a happy reminder that ambition is relative. In replacing beloved South End dive Tim’s Tavern, it undertook some delicate negotiations: it would have to be casual, comfy and unpretentious enough to sway stalwarts, but it would also have to spiff up sufficiently to turn the heads of former passersby. A smattering of artsy accents add color without diluting the essence of the neighborhood bar-and-grill; likewise, the kitchen covers all the bases in the field of American gastropubbery---fried calamari and steamed mussels, steak frites and sexed-up mac ‘n’ cheese. Don’t miss the blue-cheese-stuffed mushroom and a noteworthy fried soft-shell crab. We can’t say we don’t still miss Tim’s, but we can say Coda seems like just the place to grab a beer and drown those sorrows. |
RESTAURANT AWARDS
We just published the 2012 edition of our annual restaurant issue, featuring the Top 40 Restaurants in the U.S. and much more. Check it out!
