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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Colorado Restaurant Review: Near St. Louis University and the Fox Theatre, this converted warehouse offers better-than-palatable food with a little extra pungency thanks to its chilehead owner, John Rice. The decor is a deliberate tribute to its namesake's glory days in the Eisenhower administration, when knotty pine was de rigeur and Roy Rogers was bigger than Mark McGwire. An eclectic group of customers include business and family groups, couples on dates, unigender parties celebrating a birthday and solo diners. Menu items range from vegetable pizza to Thai noodles with special kudos going to the stuffed trout. There's a bow to the south with enchiladas and fajitas, and a steak for meat-and-potatoes customers, who benefit from mashers with fresh basil and dried tomatoes. Some entrees seem to be a little short on meat, but perhaps that's a bow in the heart-healthy direction that marks a number of entries. Several appetizers are large enough to serve as entree, and pretty fair desserts often include a berry cobbler that's tasty, but more like a pudding cake. Service ranges from fine to insipid.