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Come On In! Restaurant Review: This hub for La Jollans draws a crowd in the morning and during lunch hours, and dinner is gaining popularity. For breakfast, we like to treat ourselves with cornmeal pancakes topped with bananas and strawberries. Among the simple, dependable lunchtime fare is chicken salad on sourdough --- tart green apples and pecans replace the requisite celery; pair it with the mixed greens (with sugar snap peas, red pepper and poppy seed dressing) and a cup of black bean chili. For dinner, try the cuori di carciofi --- baby artichoke hearts broiled in olive oil, fresh mint and garlic. Move on to the many Italian (via California) main courses. The fiesta di mare combines tiger shrimp, black mussels, clams and salmon in saffron broth; all this is tossed with fresh tomatoes and served over linguine. Or have a petit filet mignon topped with melted Gorgonzola, crispy bacon and red wine glaze. Longtime baker Judy Eagan's pastry selections are as tempting as they are varied. Other locations.