THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED COMMISSARY

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED COMMISSARY Restaurant Review:

The greenhouse effect is at work in Koreatown, but we don't mean climate change. We're talking about a positive addition to the area's culinary landscape: COMMISSARY, the restaurant inhabiting a poolside greenhouse perched over Wilshire Boulevard on The Line Los Angeles hotel's second floor. It can get a little noisy in this glass-encased structure when diners are packed in at the bar, central round four-tops and long communal tables. There's also an adjacent patio. The vibe is casual --- so informal, in fact, that you must set the table yourself with the napkins and stack of plates and silverware provided. COMMISSARY is an interesting, market-centric concept. Help reach your daily recommended servings of fruits and vegetables with the charred carrots or cauliflower tempura. A few sandwiches (including a shrimp po' boy) check in along with schnitzel and black bass. Desserts might include tres leches cake or sticky date pudding. (Stop by caFe in the lobby for more sweets.) The wine list is limited, but boasts creative selections like Blaufränkisch, a red varietal from Austria. Cocktails are served in plastic cups. With the bill comes a seed packet printed with COMMISSARY's address --- a clever alternative to business cards.