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The Commissary

101 Montgomery St. (Sheridan Ave.) Send to Phone
415-561-3600 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
Traci Des Jardins owns this Presidio outpost, offering California-interpreted Spanish cuisine in a former military mess hall.

Breakfast & Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.

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The Commissary, San Francisco, CA

The Commissary Restaurant Review

: Its name is no joke: occupying what was once the mess hall of a 19th-century military barracks in San Francisco's Presidio, The Commissary sports reclaimed U.S. Army lighting fixtures and, among other features, a panoramic front porch. It's from chef-restaurateur Traci Des Jardins, who also owns Jardinière and Mijita Cocina Mexicana. The open kitchen is outfitted with ringside-style seating at this Presidio Trust project. The ever-shifting array of California-interpreted Spanish fare has included sardines escabeche, sweet pea and ham croquetas, and striped bass and clams with almond-garlic picada. Satisfying classics range from crispy potato tapas to juicy albóndigas. But Des Jardins' wild imagination elevates such inventions as fennel-artichoke paella and saffron-vanilla ice cream with pine nut turrón. Cavas and sangrías augment a wine list almost exclusively honoring Spain and California; cocktails such as the Sand & Fog, comprising Scotch, sherry, eucalyptus and nettles, riff slyly on Spain.
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