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Coppia Restaurant Review: At most wine bars food serves a secondary role as a complement to the wine. Here, wine and food are full partners, the meaning behind the name: Italian for "couple" or "pairing." The emphasis is on subtle, rich flavors and the big wines (Barolos, Barbarescos) of the Piedmont corner of Northern Italy. A floor-to-ceiling wine wall dominates the décor of the cozy space, dividing it into two rooms: a lighter, outer one where you can watch the busy street scene, or an interior, quieter one. A bar straddles the two areas, but both retain a romantic intimacy. Each dish comes with a suggested wine pairing but you are also free to choose your own. The menu offers small and large plates; one of each per person should satisfy most appetites. You can make a conventional food choice, a pleasant salumi, fruit and bread platter, or enjoy a comparable selection of cheeses. If a culinary adventure is more your style, consider the vitello tonnato (thin sliced veal in a lemon and tuna sauce, with a dot of pear mostarda), the sautéed wild mushrooms with bread, a scallop risotto, pappardelle with wild boar sauce, or salmon with a hazelnut and caper agrodolce and arugula salad. For dessert, sample the panna cotta or the frangipane custard tart with cherries.