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Coquette Restaurant Review: There are any number of reasons to seek out this largely unsung gem, not the least of which is owner Mike Stoltzfus, former sous chef at Restaurant August under chef John Besh. Second, the waitstaff is efficient and well-versed in the restaurant’s cuisine. The menu changes daily, but always offers small and large plates. Typical dishes include chicken-fried sweetbreads, and soft-shell crab with sweet corn and bacon. Stoltzfus has a distinctive talent for combining unlikely flavors: his Gulf shrimp are sometimes paired with grapefruit, niçoise olives and chili vinaigrette. As if all of that were not enough, the meal peaks with a dessert of andouille caramel sea salt ice cream. The wine list is just complex and diverse enough to demand a full reading, with a respectable selection of old-world and new-world wines spanning the globe from Hungary to California’s Russian River Valley. Coquette’s handsome nineteenth-century building has some of the highest ceilings in town and massive windows overlooking bustling Magazine Street.